Ashes and Arguments: Masaan Holi at Manikarnika Ghat Sparks Tradition vs Sanctity Debate in Varanasi

In the spiritual heart of Varanasi, where life and death coexist along the sacred Ganga, a striking and unconventional Holi ritual has, in recent years, drawn both fascination and controversy.

At the famed Manikarnika Ghat—one of Hinduism’s most revered cremation grounds—devotees gather to celebrate what is popularly known as Masaan ki Holi, a ceremony in which ash from funeral pyres replaces the usual vibrant gulal.

This year, however, the observance scheduled for February 28 has encountered stiff resistance, with critics demanding its immediate suspension.

Opponents argue that the practice lacks scriptural endorsement and disrupts the solemnity of a site deeply associated with final rites and spiritual liberation.

Custodians Raise Objections

Leading the opposition are descendants of the traditional Dom Raja lineage and members of the Dom community—hereditarily entrusted with conducting cremations at Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghat.

They are joined by the Kashi Vidvat Parishad, a respected council of Sanskrit scholars and authorities on Hindu scriptures.

Vishwanath Chaudhary, who claims succession to the ceremonial title of Dom Raja after the passing of Jagdish Chaudhary in 2020, voiced strong concerns.

According to him, the revelry creates severe inconvenience for bereaved families arriving to perform cremation rituals.

He alleged that chaotic crowds and occasional misconduct, including alcohol consumption, compel grieving relatives to endure prolonged waiting periods—sometimes extending up to ten hours.

While Vishwanath clarified that festivities inside the premises of the Baba Mashan Nath temple are not being opposed, he insisted that celebrations spilling into the cremation grounds compromise the dignity of the sacred space.

He has reportedly appealed to the local administration and police to prohibit the gathering at the pyre site so that mourners may complete the rites without disturbance.

Scholars Question Legitimacy

Echoing similar sentiments, representatives of the Kashi Vidvat Parishad contend that no classical texts reference such a ritual.

Ram Narayan Dwivedi, the Parishad’s secretary, emphasised that a cremation ground is imbued with a unique sanctity and is traditionally reserved for solemn rites rather than festivity.

He further pointed out that customary guidelines regulate who may enter such spaces, particularly regarding women and children.

Critics argue that the observance is a relatively modern phenomenon that has been projected as an ancient custom, gaining momentum largely through social media exposure.

Organisers Defend Tradition

On the other side of the debate stands Gulshan Kapoor, administrator of the Baba Mashan Nath Temple and one of the principal coordinators of the event. Kapoor maintains that Masaan Holi is an age-old celebration deeply rooted in local belief systems.

According to him, objections are driven more by publicity considerations than by genuine concern.

He asserts that attendance has grown dramatically, with nearly four lakh participants—among them international visitors—joining last year’s observance.

The programme, he said, will begin with rituals inside the temple around noon, followed by symbolic celebrations at the ghat, concluding by early afternoon.

Mythological Significance

The theological basis of the ritual draws from Kashi’s devotional lore. It is believed that on Rangbhari Ekadashi, Lord Shiva—revered here as Baba Vishwanath—ceremonially brings Goddess Parvati to his abode, marking the commencement of Holi festivities. Devotees celebrate this divine union with exuberance.

Local mythology further narrates that while gods, celestial beings, and humans partake in these festivities, Shiva restrains his ghostly attendants from mingling with the public.

Later, moved by compassion, he is believed to proceed to the cremation grounds to play Holi with them using sacred ash—a symbolic gesture representing the transcendence of life and death.

Tradition at a Crossroads

As of now, no official directive has been issued to halt the observance. With administrative silence persisting, the ritual appears poised to proceed as scheduled.

Yet the controversy underscores a deeper tension between evolving cultural expressions and established religious conventions in one of India’s most spiritually significant cities.

At Manikarnika—where flames never extinguish, and liberation is believed to await—the debate over Masaan Holi continues to blur the boundaries between devotion, tradition, and decorum.

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