Tears in Dalmandi: Varanasi’s Centuries-Old Market Faces an Uncertain Future Amid Road-Widening Drive
BK Singh
VARANASI: In the shadow of the sacred Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the bustling lanes of Dalmandi — one of Varanasi’s oldest and most vibrant commercial hubs — are gripped by uncertainty and sorrow.
For generations, this narrow artery, no wider than 3–4 meters, has thrived as a symbol of the city’s living heritage.
Now, as plans to widen the historic road to 17.4 meters move forward, hundreds of shopkeepers find themselves staring at an uncertain tomorrow.
What was once a crowded yet harmonious marketplace — filled with the hum of bargaining voices, the fragrance of attar and fabric dyes, and the shimmer of bridal jewelry — now echoes with quiet anxiety.
The Public Works Department (PWD) has issued official notices to 181 property owners, confirming that their buildings fall within the scope of the road-widening project.
The notice marks a decisive turn in what has become the second-largest urban project in Varanasi, after the grand Kashi Vishwanath Corridor.
And while city planners hail it as essential to managing the surge of pilgrims and tourists, those who have spent lifetimes building small empires of trade and trust on Dalmandi Road now find their world crumbling.
“Our Hearts Are Breaking, But We Have No Choice”
Inside tiny, dimly lit shops stacked with shimmering dupattas, ornate jewelry boxes, brass lamps, and home décor, traders whisper about the inevitable.
The thought of losing the space their fathers and grandfathers built has robbed many of sleep.
“I have run this shop for 40 years,” said Shahbuddin, a local shopkeeper, his voice heavy with resignation.
“The PWD has pasted notices on several buildings. We are talking among ourselves, wondering what to do next.
But where will we go? This shop is not just my livelihood — it is my family’s history.”
For most shopkeepers here, Dalmandi is not merely a market — it’s a memory. It’s where generations of traders grew up, where friendships were forged, and where the rhythm of commerce and community merged seamlessly.
Now, the looming possibility of demolition has left many distraught.
Tenants, in particular, feel trapped in a cruel bind. Having inherited leases passed down through generations, they face eviction without any entitlement to compensation.
“We’ve paid rent faithfully for decades,” said one elderly trader. “Now, we’ll lose everything — our shops, our customers, and our dignity — with nothing in return.”
A Painful Trade-Off for Progress
City officials argue that the project is unavoidable. With the Kashi Vishwanath Temple Corridor drawing unprecedented crowds, the narrow lanes of Dalmandi have become a bottleneck.
On festive days, when thousands of pilgrims throng the streets, movement slows to a crawl.
“The expansion is necessary for public safety,” said a PWD official. “The new 17.4-meter-wide road will ensure smoother flow of traffic and better access for emergency vehicles.
The project will also upgrade underground utilities — water pipelines, electricity lines, gas, broadband, and drainage.”
A camp office-cum-help desk has been set up near the Chowk police station to assist property owners with document verification and compensation procedures.
But on Monday, not a single affected owner turned up. Many said they are still grappling with shock, unsure whether to fight or to accept what seems inevitable.
“We Will Lose Our Heritage Too”
Beyond economics, what truly haunts the people of Dalmandi is the loss of heritage.
The 650-meter stretch, barely 300 meters from the Kashi Vishwanath temple, has stood for over two centuries — a living monument to Varanasi’s multicultural soul.
Most of the 500-odd shops are owned by Muslim traders, who have coexisted peacefully with Hindu customers and artisans for generations.
“We are proud that our market lies so close to the temple. It’s part of Varanasi’s spirit — where faith and livelihood live side by side,” said a jeweler whose family has traded here for over 70 years.
“Now they say development is coming. But development for whom, if it destroys our way of life?”
Tax Dues and “Double Harassment”
Adding to their woes, the Varanasi Municipal Corporation has instructed the PWD to deduct pending property tax dues — estimated at ₹2.28 crore — from the compensation payable to affected property owners.
Many called the move “double punishment,” as they already stand to lose parts of their property.
“We are not against development,” said one shop owner. “But we should be treated fairly.
This project is taking away our shops, our history, and now even our compensation.”
Officials Urge Cooperation, But Fear Lingers
Additional District Magistrate Vandita Srivastava has urged all affected residents to cooperate with authorities.
“Even if property owners lack full documentation, they should come forward and inform the camp office. The administration is here to help,” she said.
But for many, the pain runs deeper than paperwork. Dalmandi has been their world — a living, breathing ecosystem where families worked side by side for generations.
The widening of the road, while necessary, is also a story of displacement, nostalgia, and loss.
In a city as ancient as Varanasi, where every brick tells a story, the widening of Dalmandi Road is not merely an engineering project.
It is a chapter in the eternal struggle between heritage and modernity — between the need for progress and the price of preserving a way of life.
And tonight, as the city’s lights flicker on the ghats of the Ganga, the traders of Dalmandi sit in their shops, surrounded by the goods they may soon have to pack away — wondering if progress must always come at the cost of belonging.
